REPAIR MANUAL
ZT2560
Swisher Mower Co
Warrensburg, MO
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IF ENGINE WON’T CRANK
ALWAYS CHECK FUSE FIRST
TEST #1
Using a remote starter switch or suitable device, make a
connection between the large terminals on the solenoid.
If engine does not crank!!!
•Battery may be weak or dead
•Starter may be bad
•Battery cables may have bad connections
•Do not go to Test #2 until this test gives results
TEST #2
If engine did crank in test #1, disconnect green wire at
spade connector and apply positive voltage from the
battery to the primary wire on the solenoid. Make sure
the one with the eyelet is grounded. If engine doesn’t
crank now, replace the solenoid. Remember, all other
tests are useless unless these two tests make the
engine turn over.
TEST #3
If engine did crank in the first part of test #2, reconnect
green wire to solenoid. Make sure the drive controls are
out in neutral position. Using a jumper wire attached to
the positive terminal of the battery, apply 12 volts to
the red wire on terminal B of the ignition switch. Try to
crank, using the ignition switch. If engine cranks, the
fuse or the fuse holder, or related wiring is defective
somewhere back to the solenoid.
TEST #4
If engine did not crank in test #3, make sure the drive
controls are in neutral position. This time move the
jumper wire attached to the positive terminal of the
battery, to the green wire on S terminal of the ignition
switch. If all components in the circuit are working, the
engine should crank. If it doesn’t, move on to next test.
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1
A neutral switch is located on the lower end of both
drive control handles and is activated when the handles
are outward in the neutral position. Check that the
plunger buttons on both switches are depressed at least
3/8”. Meter should go to zero when checking continuity
across switch terminals with plungers depressed.
If any of the switches in this circuit tested bad, install a new
one and perform Test #4 again. If all switches are good, a
connecting wire must be at fault. Don’t move past Test #4
until it assures a good circuit. When you do get good results,
hook all wires back to original position and try the ignition
switch again. If no results, you will need to replace the
ignition switch.
With PTO switch in
the off position, meter
should go to zero
when checking
continuity across these
two terminals.
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2
ENGINE CRANKS BUT WON’T START
Checks for electrical problems
•While turning ignition switch to its first position, listen for the fuel solenoid on the
carburetor to click. It must click to supply fuel to the carburetor.
•Try a new spark plug.
•Check for spark at plug when it is removed and the threaded end is grounded.
•Unplug the six-position socket that connects engine wiring to mower wiring harness.
Engine will still crank. If plug doesn’t have a spark now, ignition module is probably
defective.
Checks for mechanical problems
•Make sure the tank gas valve is turned on.
•Remove air filter element to check for signs of gas in the throat of the carburetor.
•If no gas, check to see if choke is working properly.
•If all above checks show positive, carburetor must have an internal problem. Remove and
clean the carburetor.
ENGINE STALLS WHEN PTO IS ENGAGED
The seat safety switch plug not being properly inserted, or a
defective plug can cause this problem. If the plug is not
inserted or is defective, the spark plug is grounded out when
the PTO is engage.
To check, remove plug from the PTO switch. Using an
ohmmeter, place one probe on the terminal connected to the
black wire going to the seat safety switch plug. Place the
other probe on a good chassis ground. The meter should be
on zero with no weight on the seat. Pulling the seat down
should open the circuit.
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3
IF PTO CLUTCH WILL NOT ENGAGE
Apply a negative ground to this terminal
Apply 12 volts to this terminal. Clutch should activate,
if it doesn’t, clutch is defective.
If clutch checks OK, use a voltmeter to measure if
there is 12 volts at the brown wire’s terminal. First
turn ignition switch to the ON position but don’t start
the engine. Now engage the PTO switch. For the first
test put the negative probe on a good ground, not on
the white wire’s terminal in the plug. If no voltage is
measured, move on to next test.
With the PTO switch ON there should be continuity
between these two connectors, if not, replace switch. If
switch tested good, check wires and connectors back
to ignition switch and back to clutch plug.
If all checked good in the two previous tests, the
problem may now be a poor ground on the white wire
in the clutch plug. Check by testing for continuity to
ground or check for voltage between the two terminals
HOUR METER NOT OPERATING
Hour meter has a positive and a
negative post. Gray wire should go on
the positive. Power is supplied from the
ignition switch.
Green wire from hour meter is
grounded by the oil pressure switch,
therefore only has a ground when the
engine is running.
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4
WIRE IDENTIFICATION AT SWITCHES
3623 IGNITION SWITCH
One gray wire goes to the
Green wire goes to PTO switch
PTO switch and the other
goes to the hour meter
Red wire goes to fuse and
on to battery positive at
the solenoid terminal.
One black wire goes
to PTO switch and
the other goes to the
engine plug
One white wire goes to clutch
and other one goes to ground.
STARTER SOLENOID
Green wire goes to
neutral switches
and on to the
Heavy red cable
goes to the starter.
ignition switch.
Red wire goes
to engine plug.
Green wire with
orange stripe goes
to the ground.
Heavy red cable
goes to the
positive post of the
battery.
Red wire goes to
ignition switch.
PTO SWITCH PLUG
Black wire goes to the
ignition switch.
Black wire goes to the seat
switch.
Green wire goes to the
ignition switch.
Green wire goes to the
neutral switches.
Gray wire goes to the
ignition switch.
Brown wire goes to the
clutch.
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5
WIRING HARNESS TO ENGINE PLUG CONNECTION
Gray wire goes to carburetor fuel solenoid
Green wire goes to oil pressure switch
Black wire goes to engine ignition module
Red wire goes to engine charging system
Green wire goes to hour meter
Red wire goes to terminal on solenoid
with the positive battery cable.
Black wire goes to the ignition switch.
Gray wire goes to hour meter
WIRING HARNESS PLUG TO ENGINE
Gray wire goes to hour meter
Red wire goes to
terminal on solenoid
with the positive
battery cable.
Black wire goes to the
ignition switch.
Green wire goes to hour meter
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6
BATTERY CHARGING SYSTEM
Red wire goes to the engine plug and
then on to the positive terminal of the
solenoid to keep the battery charged.
Easiest way to check if the charging is
taking place is to measure the DC
voltage of the battery before you start the
engine. Then start the engine. Measure
the voltage at the battery with the engine
running. The voltage should be at least
one volt higher right after the engine is
started. This voltage will drop a little as
the battery gets recharged.
Voltage
Regulator
To test alternator before it goes to the
regulator, unplug the yellow connector
and measure the AC voltage across the
the two gray wires inside this
connector.There should be at least 20
volts AC.
CARBURETOR FUEL SOLENOID
Black wire goes to engine ground.
Gray wire goes to the engine plug,
then on to the ignition switch where it
receives power to activate the fuel shut
off valve.
Fuel shut off solenoid is a Briggs part
and is available through them only.
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7
DRIVE CONTROL ADJUSTMENTS
LEFT SIDE SHOWN
Control plate shown
in neutral position
Start your adjustments by putting the
drive control arms in the neutral position.
Remove the linkage from the control
plate at the Eaton hydro by removing the
cotter pin and washer on the under side.
By moving the control plate forward and
backwards by hand you can easily find
the neutral position on the hydro.
Hydro linkage
With the drive control handles in the
neutral position, this linkage pivot should
be close to straight up and down.
With control plate on hydro still in the
neutral position, try to put hydro linkage
back into the hole on the plate. If it won’t
go in without forcing one way or the
other, adjust threads here to make an
easy hookup.
With the control linkage once again
removed, move the control plate forward
as far as it will go.
Move the control handle forward until
this linkage contacts the adjusting bolt in
front of it.Again try to put the control
linkage in to the control plate. Do not
adjust the control linkage to make this
happen, adjust the bolt in front instead.
This adjusting bolt will now be used to
set both drive wheels to pull equally.
With the control handles fully forward,
observe which side is turning the fastest.
Extend the bolt rear ward to slow the
travel of that side until they are pulling
the same on both sides.
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8
DRIVE CONTROL ADJUSTMENTS (CONTINUED)
LEFT SIDE SHOWN
Once both hydro units are pulling
equally, make your final control handle
adjustment with this ball linkage.
Whichever handle is going the farther
forward, lengthen the linkage on that
side until the handles are straight across
when mower is traveling in a straight
line. If a lot of adjustment is needed,
shorten the linkage on the opposite side
for half of the adjusting.
OVERVIEW OF DRIVE CONTROL LINKAGE
RIGHT SIDE SHOWN
Right side control handle
Pivot point for control handle movement
Pivot point
Forward and reverse control on hydrostat
Adjustment threads on control rod
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9
PARKING BRAKE AND NEUTRAL SWITCH OPERATION
Right side drive control handle.
Parking brake cable attaches here. Right
side is shown. Control panel has been
removed for better view.
Parking brake is activated by this bolt as
the drive control handle is swung
outward in the neutral position. Tension
on brake cable can be adjusted by raising
or lowering this bolt, but the main
adjustment is performed on the other end
of the cable down by the rear wheels.
Safety switch rocker arm
pivots on a bolt at this point.
This is the neutral safety switch that
prevents the engine from cranking unless
the drive controls are both swung
outward in neutral position. The switch
has a slotted mount bracket so the travel
of the push button can be adjusted to
depress about 3/8” to activate. Further
information about checking this switch is
found in the electrical diagnosing section
The parking brake can be adjusted by
moving the nuts on this cable. A nut is
located on each side of this frame. As the
outer cable moves forward, the brake
will become tighter.
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10
DECK LIFTING SYSTEM
Three rocker arms are activated by the
deck lift handle. This is the right side
control. Note the routing of the cable. It
drops straight below to the deck.
This center rocker arm lifts the front
center of the deck. It also drops through
the lower frame but is directed by two
pulleys under the mower frame to the
front of the deck.
The deck lift system has two springs to
assist in raising the deck. The ease of
lifting the deck can be adjusted by
tightening this nut equally on each
spring.
The guide pulley for the front center
deck lift cable.
Front guide pulley for the center lift cable.
To level the deck, start by lowering the
deck lift handle to its lowest position. If
the deck is not setting on the ground,
turn the nuts under these three brackets
until it does. The left and right cables in
the rear should then be tightened until
the back end of the deck is level across
and rides about 1\4 inch higher than the
front end.
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11
DECK BELT REPLACEMENT
ENGINE TO DECK BELT
•Lower the deck to lowest setting
•Loosen tension on tension idler
•Remove worn or damaged belt
•Using part# 10263 belt, route it around
the engine pulley as shown in the diagram.
•Retighten the tension idler and check the
operation
Belt coming from the electric clutch
will be routed around this idler pulley
on the outside.
As belt leaves the previous idler pulley
it will be routed around this flat idler
pulley to the inside and then forward
to the deck.
DECK CROSS BELT
•Remove the belt covers
•Remove the engine to deck belt from
deck pulley
•Loosen the tension to the tension idler
•Remove the worn or damaged belt and
replace with part# 5058 belt
•Reinstall the engine to deck belt and
retighten both tension idlers
Tension on belt can be
adjusted by tightening or
loosening this nut.
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12
REPAIRING OR REPLACING BLADE DRIVER
Torque top nut to 90 ft/lbs
Replacing this nut each
time is recommended.
Since there are no hubs on
our pulleys, this Belleville
washer is important to apply
friction to the pulley to turn
the shaft. Make sure the
outer lip is down to best
contact the pulley.
Machine washers are used
to keep the pulley from
contacting the outer race
of the bearing. When
applying torque to the top
nut the pressure is to the
inner race only and onto
the shank on the inner
shaft.
Pulley does not have a hub.
When removing, just lift it
off like a washer, no puller is
needed.
Bottom end of the shaft
has the same ¾ in. SAE
threads as the top end.
Bearings are sealed. They
can be driven out and new
ones pressed in for repairing
the spindle assembly. It can
also be purchased as a unit
for easier repair.
This washer is wide
enough to to cover the full
bottom of the housing and
is used as a protector for
the seal in the bearing.
This adaptor block is right
hand threaded onto the ¾ in.
shaft. Torque this block to
90 ft/lbs just like the nut at
the top of the shaft.
Machine washer used
as a spacer just like
those on top of the
upper bearing.
Install the blade adaptor block to the bottom of the shaft. Before applying torque, install the
blade to the block using only the outer two bolts. Leave the center bolt out for now. Block
the blade to outer deck edge by using a 4x4 or similar stop. Using a torque wrench on the
top nut above the pulley, apply 90 ft/lbs. The top nut and the adaptor block will equally
receive the tightening. Now put the washer on the center bolt and install into the shaft.
Torque the three bolts to 35 ft/lbs. The center bolt will lock the block so it won’t come off.
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13
For additional assistance on service
Contact Swisher Mower Co., Inc.
Phone 1-800-222-8183
Fax 1-660-747-3160
E-mail [email protected]
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